This project started awhile back- before I left Saint Louis, really. I wanted one of those really posh sweaters from Urban Outfitters or Anthropologie, but I wanted to knit it myself, AND from clearance dollar-a-skein, yet still alluring yarn. The sweater this is based on is long gone, but it has my seven favorite features: a hood, 3/4 sleeves, an empire waist, flattering ribbing, lace to naturally emphasize the bust, cardigan style, and giant buttons.
Because of its features, it’s also the perfect companion to all those dreary, drizzling northwest days. And it only cost $12 to make. Whoo hoo!
MATERIALS:
-8 balls of Yarn Bee Icelandic Jewels in Black Pearl (or approx. 1025 yds of comparable heavy worsted weight wool)
-2 large buttons
-sewing needle, matching thread
-2 size 10 1/2 straight needles or one 24′-36′ circular needle
-2 size 5 DPN’s (for I-cord)
GAUGE:
20 sts = 5.5′, so approx. 4 sts per inch. Pattern designed for medium size (32′-36′ waist/bust). Large and extra large follow in parentheses. The cardigan design is pretty forgiving, if in doubt go down one size.
FRONT:
LEFT SIDE: Cast on 40 (48, 52) stitches.
Row 1: knit 1, purl 1. Repeat to last stitch.
Rows 2 & 4: work stitches as they appear.
Row 3: knit 1, purl 1. Repeat until two stitches remain, p2tog.
Repeat these four rows 8 times, total of 32 rows. Should measure about 8 inches.
Work the next six rows in stockinette (knit RS, then purl WS) leaving a selvage of 4 (6, 8 ) sts of 1X1 ribbing on each edge.
LACE PATTERN:
Row 37: k1, p1 (repeat these two sts 3x for L, 4x for XL), k2, *k2tog, k3, YO, k1, YO, k3, k2tog* (repeat *-* once more), p2, k1, p1 (repeat last 2 sts 3x, 4x).
Row 38 (and all even rows): work stitches as they appear.
Row 39: k1 , p1, (repeat these 2 sts 3x, 4x), k2, *k2tog, k2, YO, k3, YO, k2, k2tog* (repeat *-* once more), p2, k1, p1 (repeat last 2 sts 3x, 4x, cont for each even row).
Row 41: k1 , p1, (X3, X4) k2, *k2tog, k1, YO, k5, YO, k1, k2tog* (repeat *-*), p2, k1, p1 (X3, X4).
Row 43: k1, p1, (X3, X4) k2, *YO, k3, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k3, YO* (rep *-*), p2, k1, p1 (X3, X4).
Row 45: k1, p1, (X3, X4) k2, *k1, YO, k2, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k2, YO, k1* (rep *-*), p2, k1, p1 (x3, x4).
Row 47: k1, p1, (x3, x4) k2, *k2, YO, k1, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k1, YO, k2* (rep *-*), p2, k1, p1 (x3, x4).
Repeat rows 37-48 for rows 49-60.
BEGIN RAGLAN DECREASES:
RS- knit across row until 2 stitches remain; k2tog.
WS- purl.
Continue for 22 more rows (24 rows total); BO. Piece should measure about 21 inches.
FOR RIGHT FRONT:
Repeat, EXCEPT-
1. For rows 1-32, you will decreasing (ppso) at the BEGINNING of rows 3, 7, 10, 14, etc.
2. For rows 60-84, decrease (ppso) at the BEGINNING of all even rows.
BACK:
Cast on 80 (84, 88 ) sts.
Row 1: k1, p1, repeat until end.
Row 2: work sts as they appear.
Row 3: psso, p1, k1, p1, repeat until 2 sts remain, p2tog.
Row 4: work sts as they appear.
Work rows 1-4 8 times, 32 rows total.
Row 33: knit
Row 34: purl
Repeat for rows 35-60.
Begin working raglan decreases. Decrease at the beginning and end of each knit row of RS, purl the WS. Repeat until row 74.
Begin short rows. Knit 12 sts, wrap & turn, purl. k9, w&t, purl. k6, w&t, purl. k3, w&t, purl.
Bind off as you knit the next row (across entire top of sweater back). Begin short rows on the last 12 sts, same as the first side. Bind off last 3 stitches. Piece should measure about 22 inches.
SLEEVE:
Cast on 30 (34, 38) sts.
Row 1: k1, p1, repeat.
Row 2 & all even rows: work sts as they appear.
Row 3: m1, knit made stitch, p1, repeat to last stitch, m1.
Repeat rows 1-4 5 times, total of 20 rows.
Row 21: knit
Row 22: purl
Row 23: m1, knit to last st, m1
Row 24: purl.
Repeat until piece measures the length from a few inches above the wrist to the crease of your armpit- number of rows is not significant.
Begin working raglan decreases. Work stockinette, decreasing one stitch at the beginning AND end of every other row (RS is easiest). Continue until raglan edge on sleeve is equal to raglan edge of the front/back pieces.
At this point, you should start pinning everything together and sew seams. (For tips on good seams, go here.) You may need to sew up the shoulder (closer to the neck) a bit- I did. 
The shoulders can droop a little bit- no worries, the hoodie will fix this. Once you are finished sewing the pieces together, take a measurement of the entire neckline. This will be Magical Number X.
HOODIE:
(Now… I like my hoods BIG. Nothing is worse than a wimpy hoodie that looks like a swim cap. If you happen to not agree, cast on less sts.)
Cast on 100 sts. Work 8 rows of 1X1 ribbing. Continue until piece measures HALF of Magical Number X. Bind off loosely. With rib sts at the top, fold finished rectangle in half (widthwise), and sew the two bottom edges together. VOILA! Hood! But… if you’re like me and don’t want to look like an elf, you can take that sharp pointy corner at the top and fold it down into a triangle INSIDE the hood. Stitch along the folded edge, and then inside along both sides of the triangle. Much better. Next, sew your hoodie onto the neckline of your sweater.
Now it’s button time.
Using size 5 DPNs, knit an I-cord 3 sts wide and two times longer than your button is wide (Tutorial here.) Make 2 of these- one for each button. Now, put your sweater back on and pin the buttons and I-cords where they look best. Sew them on with a thread and needle.
Finished!
How long did it take you to knit this?
Oh and the BIATCH is me. Kristen
It’s absolutely gorgeous. It’s timeless. There’s nothing more classic than a chunky knitted cardigan hoodie. You did an awesome job.
hey, biatch- i think it took about 12 hours start to finish.
and thanks mom!
I love it. That is going to be my next sweater:)
Thank you very much:)
Do you know the approximate finished bust on the extra large.
pam: according to my caluculations, the finished measurement would be 42 inches, and would likely stretch to fit up to 46-48 inches. you may want to knit a guage swatch to be sure it’s coming out at 20 sts to 5.5 inches.
Thanks much for a beautiful pattern; however I have some questions:
1. For the even rows, what exactly do you mean by “working stitches as they appear”?
2. In the Lace Section, are the pattern changes for the L & X-L sizes supposed to be continued in rows 45 & 47?
3. For the Right Front, do you literally reverse the completion order of stitches? i.e., the row 1 K1, P1 becomes P1, K1? Row 37 would become: p1 (3, 5), k1, p1, *k2tog, k3, YO, k1, YO, k3, k2tog* twice; k1, p1, k1 (3, 5)?
1. For the even of rows 1-32, you will k1, p1 across the row, creating 1 X 1 ribbing.
2. Yes.
3. I will go back and edit this one- you are only reversing the EDGES on the right side. The rest will be symmetrical following the pattern same as the left side (i.e, for rows 1-32, you will decrease at the BEGINNING of the rows 3, 7, 10, etc, and also decrease at the BEGINNING of the raglan decrease rows.)
Thanks for your questions, I aim to make this pattern better if I can!
I also fixed another error- I meant to indicate on the front sides that for sizes L & XL, you will be adding extra 1×1 ribbing to each side.
I like your pattern. I appreciate your assistance on clarifying the cast-on.
As I started to knit, I noticed the different ratio in cast-on for front and back (supposed to be the twice of the front) and the width of two front pieces are much wider than the back. Is it supposed to be this way???
For clarification, which one of cast on is correct?
1. the front cast on 40( 48,52) and the back cast on 80 (96, 104)
2. the front cast on 40 (42, 44) and the back cast on 80 (84, 88)
3. OR something else.
Thanks.
W
I actually did knit the front panels wider than the back, because I wanted a little overlap so attaching buttons would be easier. You could make them symmetrical with the back (i.e. 40/48/52 front, 80/96/104 back), but I worry the sweater would hang open too much. Does that make sense?
Thank you for your reply. Yes, it does make sense. I shall follow your original pattern. Thanks again for sharing the great pattern. W
Hi, Jillian.
Following your suggestion, I am making it asymmetrical. Now I am at the back neck/shoulder line. Can you please clarify a couple issues?
1. The lengths of front (21″) and back (22″) are different. Is it for hoodie attachment?
2. I am confused around the back neck/shoulder line. From instructions for after row 74, it appears that edge sides are straight (no decrease) and the neck line is being created by 3 st decrease on RS. Or should the straight edge be on the neckline (which create a square box corner) and 3 st decrease on the shoulder side (which creates the sharper raglan decrease)?
Thanks. W.
1. I do believe when I finished all three pieces that the back was longer than the 2 front pieces (incl short rows) because the back comes further up the shoulder than the front pieces do. When stitching up your seams, make sure the bottoms of all 3 pieces (and the 2 side seams) line up and go from there. I then stitched the front 2 panels and the back along the shoulder seam. Very last is the hoodie!
2. The 3 st decreases are along the inside of the neckline, and not the sides. Before row 74, you should have a flat, boxy edge where the neckline will be, with just a few short rows on each side that will build a sideways triangle. This will give you a boat style neckline, and you can stitch together the front panel and this short row section a bit to make a tighter neckline. When the hoodie gets sewed on, it will also shape this neckline a bit more.
Does all of that make sense?